Day 3: Great Smoky Mountains National Park

One of the most popular sections of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (and the one we spent most of our time at today) is Cades Cove. This was first colonized in around 1820 (and yes, I mean first colonized – there is no evidence of Cherokee settlement before then), and in the 21st century it’s pretty hard to understand why. Today’s visitors are met with a St Fagan’s style collection of log cabins, smoke-houses, a mill and three (count them – three) churches.

The community was short-lived (in European terms!). Changes those first settlers could never have imagined led to the creation of the National Park in 1924. One inhabitant took his case to be allowed to keep his land to the Tennessee Supreme Court three times, but to no avail – he was forced to sell in 1937. Some residents chose to receive less for their land and retain the right to stay until their death – most of those actually moved away as the school shut, the facilities moved, the tourists came, the world changed.

Leaving aside the wanderlust (or wanderneed) of a bygone age, and my new-found desire to re-read Little House on the Prairie, the shred of story which struck me most was found in the graveyard of the Primitive Baptist Church. Two grave stones stand next to each other – one much newer than the other, but clearly intended to replicate the older carving. If I remember it correctly (and forgive me if I don't - this has grown on me over the day), the older said simply:

Lora Estelle

Dau of Mr and Mrs

Andy M Kenell

Born and Died

Feb 3, 1911

That points to a family tragedy which can be found in any country graveyard (and many times over just in that tiny plot – life was hard in Cades Cove). But the story which is still playing in my mind is the other stone:

Lura Louelle

Dau of Mr and Mrs

Andy M Kenell

Born Feb 3, 1911

Died Jan 24, 2004

What a poignant thing that a woman in her nineties chose to be buried next to the twin she never knew, with headstones as similar as their names. Was this shadow always over her life? Is that why she never married? Did she ever move away in spirit from this beautiful ghost town? Would she have liked to think that another similarly-named woman from across the ocean would think of her; call back her children to explain her story? Or would she have had no time for sentimental twaddle?

Today’s statistics:

• Started driving: 10.37
• Finished driving: 20.43
• Miles: 129
• New States: 1 (I think – the Tennessee / North Carolina border is a bit wibbly-wobbly)
• New State license plates seen: 5
• Deer seen: 3
• Wild turkeys seen: 11
• Bears seen: 0 (grr)
• Breakfast: Smoky Mountain Pancake House, Pigeon Forge
• Lunch: Picnic, Cades Cove
• Dinner: TGI Friday, Sevierville

Today’s Discoveries:

• Mike has a very high lightning threshold.
• Not all National Parks are lonely wildernesses.
• Houston has nothing to complain about, heat-wise.
• Sandwiches can taste better than they look.